Coprnice - the Dark Side of Zagreb
The Middle Ages weren't so kind to women in Europe, and that trend continued in Zagreb, as well. We bring you the story of 'coprnice', Zagreb's infamous witches.
History of coprnice
The real witch hysteria gripped Europe in the early modern period and it spread from Austria to Croatian lands. Such a development was particularly felt in Gradec. The persecutions of witches in these parts started in the 14th century, but in the late 17th and early 18th century were the fiercest.
In those days, Zagrebians would attribute anything to witchcraft. If someone's arm or neck was swollen at night, it would have been a clear sign that he or she was bitten by a witch. If the chickens stopped laying eggs, it was the witch's fault. If the child had a fever and delirium and mentioned the name of some neighbor, it was a proof that that particular neighbor was a witch. If a woman would say to a sick neighbor that there was no cure and that he would die soon, she would have been considered a witch and she would have been held responsible for the neighbor's death.
All the women who were engaged in chanting were also considered to be witches and were blamed for every misfortune, especially frost, hail, and various diseases. Some individuals would often accuse women of being witches out of envy or jealousy. Criminal proceedings in front of the city or county court were started by the public prosecutor who was called "Fiškuš". After that, the alleged witch would be arrested and imprisoned in a dungeon in the basement of the City Hall. She would be subjected to cruel investigations during which she was tortured until she confessed who she was and revealed her helpers.
The verdict would usually be - death at the stake. The place in Gradec which was designated for the burning of witches was called "Zvezdišče" or "Središče", and it was located at the beginning of Tuškanac. The unlucky woman would be taken through Mesnička Street, bound and with a shaved head. She would be ridden there in cart because her legs would be broken after the torture. On her way to the execution place, she was followed by the judge, the executioner, and the guards, and the crowd would throw stones, spit on her and insult her.
The judge would read her crime in front of the crowd and condemn her to death and then he would hand her to the executioner. Usually, the verdict was to burn her alive at the stake. Not a pretty way to go, right? The executioner would tie her to the column, and his servants would then pile up wood which was smeared with resin so the fire would start sooner.
These customs came to an end in 1758 when empress Marija Terezija decided that before the announcement of the verdict, such processes needed to have her supervision and blessing.
Image credit: Gornjogradske coprnice Facebook page
The Upper town witches
The Upper town witches is a night tour of the Upper Town and its landmarks with a costumed guide. It includes interactive elements and lively performers. Meet the dark side of Zagreb from the Middle Ages onwards through an entertaining program and a licensed tourist guide, combined with witchcraft beliefs, the real practice and historical events. It's not as easy as Hogwarts school of Witchcraft and Wizardry. If you are willing to join the tour, be ready to be scared out of your skin!
The tour must be booked in advance. Duration of the tour is 1.5 hours. For a price of 111 kn per person, coprnice will make you all kinds of potions, and if you bring children aged 7 to 16 the price will be 88 kn per person. And, if children under age 7 wish to look at the scary witches, they can join free of charge.
Just so you know, booking in advance guarantees you a spot and a small gift! The meeting point for the scary witch tales is on Ban Josip Jelačić Square, in front of the Tourist Information Centre. On request, the tour is also available for groups, in Croatian, English and Spanish language, and that's pretty convenient. For further and more detail information, visit www.zgc.hr.
Image credit: Gornjogradske coprnice Facebook page
If you booked the tour, don't get reckless and forgot to bring you personal lucky charm. You never know what spells can be used against you!
Header image credit: Gornjogradske coprnice Facebook page
Author: Nina Klarin