Advent Foodie Quest

These days it seems like half of Croatian population plus several dozen busloads of tourists are in Zagreb.

No wonder, Advent in Zagreb (the official name of Zagreb’s Christmas market) is bigger and stronger and more eventful than ever, flying on the wings of last year’s title of the best Christmas market in Europe. By the way, it retained the title this year, too. The number and diversity of food and drink huts and stands is bigger than ever, as well as the number of locations taking part in the project. A few years before we were sentenced to the holy trinity of sausages, mulled wine and fritule (sweet fritters), now there’s really plenty to choose from, street food from all over the world.

“Hanging out at Christmas market is always fuelled by good street food.” Image credit: Advent na Europskom trgu

Yes, of course, sausages and mulled wine are still number one, competition is big and there are some really good samples out there, but why limit yourself? Next time, try a creative twist to some popular seasonal dish, or go for something completely different. Many must-try and best-of lists have been published lately for Advent in Zagreb, but I want to give my input, too. So, here’s a personal and random list of foodie treasures to look out for. Mind you, it includes dishes of all kinds and origins, not only local Zagreb grub.

“It’s holiday time, nobody is counting calories!” Image credit: Design District Zagreb

Bistro 75 proves that you don’t change a winning formula. Same as last year, their pulled pork sandwich and the so-called neburger, featuring the meat by the famous artisan butchers Čučković, are among the best fast food meals in Zagreb. On the meatless side, Saša Frid, young chef behind the former Perica bistro, serves something original at Tomislavac - raclette. This Swiss specialty consists of heated and scraped cheese with potatoes, gherkins and pickled onions. Otto & Frank is a newcomer on Zagreb restaurant scene. In their hut in Martićeva they have some classics, but also tasty and affordable daily lunchtime specials like the traditional cod stew with potatoes.

“Cod stew, lunchtime special at Otto & Frank.” Image credit: Otto & Frank

Tomićeva, aka Chef Street, where the popular programme Fuliranje takes place, is meant to be the foodie hub of this year’s Advent. Chef’s House is the place where the best Croatian chefs come to cook as guests, so you can’t go wrong with that. The standard menu designed by Andrej Barbieri and Marin Medak is also pretty interesting and yummy, with gourmet sausage-based sandwiches from Portugal or Poland. Resturant Vodnjanka from Istria brought several traditional local dishes, as well as an interesting bundle called Istrian snack - a to-go portion of pršut (dry-cured ham), rocket salad, cow’s and sheep’s milk cheese, polenta, olives and olive oil. The dark horse of this street is Vrata Kornata hut, a joint project by several restaurants from the island of Murter. With dishes like shark brodetto, fisherman’s stew or codfish with chickpeas, they are definitely refreshment in cold Zagreb.

“Gourmet sandwiches in Chef Street, or Tomićeva.” Image credit: Fuliranje kod Uspinjače

Another touch of the Adriatic is to be found on Europski Square. Bota Šare restaurant from Ston, Croatian oyster capital, has the freshest shells coming every day, for a very fair price. Add a glass of sparkling wine and there’s your slice of glamour. And now to the other side of Croatia, Stara Preša rural restaurant from Zagorje region delivers warm and filling traditional dishes, bringing back memories from your grandma’s kitchen. Sticking to a similar recipe, Cheese Bar at the corner of Jelačić Square and Cesarčeva spreads holiday cheer with traditional comfort food like sarma (minced meat and rice wrapped in sauerkraut leaves) or buncek (smoked pork shank).

“Munching down a fresh oyster at Christmas market in Zagreb? Why not?!” Image credit: Advent na Europskom trgu

Advent is also a unique opportunity to taste some rare and authentic local dishes like Viška pogača (focaccia-style pie with anchovies and tomato) from the island of Vis, or soparnik (protected Swiss chard, garlic and olive oil crusty pie) from Dalmatian hinterland, in Zrinjevac Park. And for the sweet tooth, this year’s hit is Germknödel, which we usually encounter on ski holidays in Austria. Everybody is crazy for this big and fluffy dumpling filled with plum jam, sprinkled with poppy seeds and served with vanilla sauce.

“This season, everybody is crazy about Germknödels.” Image credit: Fuliranje kod Uspinjače

Don’t worry, there’s plenty more, it’s impossible to include everything. After all, hanging out at the Christmas market is about spending time with family and friends, having fun, not being a picky restaurant critic or searching for Michelin stars. And the abundance of Zagreb’s Advent street food is guaranteed to fill you and make you happy.

“What’s cooking on Europski Square?” Image credit: Advent na Europskom trgu

Header image credit: Advent na Europskom trgu

Author: Taste of Croatia