Gastro

Wine Goulash – Turning Wine into Food

St. Martin's Day is close, the day when we celebrate wine and wine culture, a traditional custom spread in many countries of Central Europe.

In fact, it is the day when we believe must is turned into young wine, and we show gratitude to another harvest behind us. Needless to say, it is also a day when we drink a lot of wine. Accompanied by good, hearty food, of course. Which got me thinking... Wine is often an ingredient in cooking, for enhancing the flavour, deglazing, marinating, but is there any typical and favourite dish in Zagreb where wine really comes into the spotlight? And then it hit me – good ol' wine goulash. Or vinski gulaš, as we say.

“The tempting smell of a warm wine goulash is impossible to resist.” Image credit: Pivnica Budweiser FB

I also have a personal history with it. Some 30 years ago, when there were no special TV channels dedicated to cooking, all we had was one TV chef and his show on Thursday evening, where he would prepare one dish. His wine goulash somehow appealed to me (hmm, maybe because I wasn't allowed to drink wine at that tender age) and I decided to reproduce it. Yes, dad helped a bit, but I think it was actually the first real dish that I had cooked in my entire life. (Not counting some failed experiments with pancakes.) Which is funny, because most 10-year-olds would choose something else, something fried and served with ketchup, or a dessert. Since then wine goulash was often on my family's menu, although dad kind of took over in the kitchen.

Vinski gulaš is a popular gablec – working’ man’s lunch.” Image credit: Đurina hiža FB

First of all, it needs to be said that goulash is not a Croatian invention; the influence comes from our Hungarian neighbours. Second, it is such an ordinary, simple and plain dish that's everywhere. Nothing fancy or glamorous about it. But I guess that's why there's comfort in it. Wine goulash is something nobody would put on a list of famous dishes to try in Croatia, yet you will find it an almost every local lunchtime restaurant or canteen. In all its modesty and simplicity, it's perfect, filling but not heavy. Not to mention its healing powers – just go to a Croatian wedding and wait until wee hours. A good wine goulash brings you back from the dead.

“It’s all over lunchtime menu boards in Zagreb.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

But let's get technical. The meat is always beef. More precisely, baby beef, because somehow we just don't do mature beef so it's virtually unavailable to an average consumer. A lot of onion is a must. Apart from the flavour, it's needed for the thickness and texture. Then finally, dry white wine, at least a glass. And you can also put one in the pot, ha-ha! A smaller amount of potatoes is there to contrast the meat and soften the dish. Red paprika is important, as well as tomato paste, and if you like it hot, add some chili. The rest is optional and up to you, but bear in mind that less is more in this case. Good thing is that this dish can sit in your fridge for days and reheating won't harm it. 

“As banal as it may seem, wine goulash can also be a challenge for food bloggers.” Image credit: O slanom i slatkom

To try a good vinski gulaš in Zagreb, simply ask the local working folks where they eat lunch (gablec) and find a place that looks promisingly busy. One of those is the ever popular Kod Šime, just across Kvatrić farmers market. Another example is the old-school traditional downtown restaurant called Purger. There are many more, wine goulash is really a lunch menu evergreen. If you go to an organized St. Martin's Day celebration with dinner, it's highly likely to be served there. And if you're surrounded with good company and good wine, it's also highly likely it will be the best wine goulash of your life.

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Morana Zibar / Taste of Croatia