My perfect Saturday
I am not much of a sleeper so my perfect Saturday starts early, and I mean really early. After a quick bite, I'm on my way to Maksimir Park for a morning run. Maksimir is the largest and oldest park in the city and most of the time it's packed but there is this short period of time around 6-8am when you have to share it only with a few joggers and dog walkers.
Image credit: Archive of public institution Maksimir
The breakfast of champions follows the morning run, and then it's off to Kvatric market (just southwest of Kvaternik square where the old market used to be). It is not as popular as the city's main market Dolac, but if you're into locally produced fruit, vegetables, and fish, this is the place. If breakfast was too light, I tend to indulge myself in a potato and cheese burek (leafy pie, popular in these parts of the world) at piteria (pie place) Biba, located at Kvatrić plac. Just follow the smell of hot pastry. Delicious! One of the most interesting ‘sites’ on my way to market is the so-called 'gemist brigade' that you can see at old Vallis Aurea bar at Kvaternik square. Gemist brigade is a term I invented, it describes a group of elderly people debating politics and sports over wine and sparkling water. It’s a sort of a neighborhood tradition.
Image credit: Mali Medo
After indulging my market shopping needs, the next stop is usually a cup of coffee. I am quite picky about my Saturday cup so I tend to visit one of the few coffee places with some serious beans. For that, the choices just a few years back used to be limited but not anymore. Eli's cafe in Ilica, 42nd coffee in Jurišićeva, Express at Petrinjska Street or the newly opened Cogitto coffee at Varšavska are my top and only choices. If you’re into hip coffee places with baristas who know their stuff you can’t go wrong in any of these. On a sunny day, my first option for coffee and a healthy sandwich is this cozy place named U Dvorištu (aka backyard, (Ulica Jurja Zerjavica 7). This bike-friendly alternative bar is a place where you have a tea, coffee, local craft beer and enjoy delicious homemade sandwiches and cakes at their sister establishment called Piknik, all that without wondering will your kids run away (every father or mother will appreciate the importance of this tip).
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
After a short break at home, the afternoon is usually reserved for football, that's if my home team Dinamo Zagreb is playing at home. Maksimir stadium is not among the top 'football cathedrals' in Europe, actually it's just the opposite. Millions of euros have been invested in rebuilding of the stadium during the last 15 years or so but, unfortunately, with no visible effect. You won't experience a genuine football atmosphere of the old times when Maksimir stadium was a 'football fortress' known for some of the most vocal fans in Europe, the reason being disagreements between most of the fans and the club. Regardless of this situation, you can still enjoy a peaceful afternoon and see up and coming Croatian talents. Some of them will be playing for the celebrated national team and Europe’s elite football clubs in the very near future, that's almost a safe bet (the likes of Suker, Modric, Mandzukic, Corluka, Olic have all played for Dinamo Zagreb).
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
In case Dinamo is playing out of town, a second neighborhood walk is a must. Apart from enjoying the great outdoor,s my pit stops are either the book club / cafe Booksa (on Martićeva street), where you can catch a poetry night, traveler’s stories and all sorts of events, or Finjak (on Vlaska street), a cosy little vintage café filled with relics from Zagreb’s past.
My evenings are usually spent wondering around the city center, preferably the touristy Tkalciceva street where I usually go for a Canadian burger at Rocket Burger, and a locally produced craft beer Nova Runda made by my mate Miroslav (who is one of the most knowledgeable beer geeks around). Zagreb's up and coming burger scene is offering some interesting places that I often check out (Salsa, Burgeraj, Yellow submarine, are the top choices for me). Among other things, Tkalčićeva is a home of Medvedgrad, Zagreb’s only microbrewery which now covers most of the central part of the street. This is one of the few touristy places where I like to spend my time. A must stop for a Saturday night out is Ro&Do at Opatovina street, a bar situated within a walking distance of Tkalčićeva run by big guy Dominik Skorić, my favourite barmen in Zagreb and all around good guy. If he likes you, this place will become your second home, if not, well, you better leave.
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
If there is any energy left, I tend to close the night at Jabuka, one of locals' favourite night clubs. Don’t let its location fool you. Despite the fact it’s situated in the elite residential area, Jabuka caters to an alternative crowd. If by any chance I find myself hungry at the early hours, options are limited, but you can always count on Kod Trovača aka “the Poisoner” (the real name of the place is City Club Grill but no one knows that). It’s Zagreb’s institution where you can have famous ćevapi and yogurt along with a conversation with fellow night owls in search for food.
Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board
Author: Ivan Kovačević
Ivankovacevic.net