Zagreb's Bermuda Triangle
It was the most popular place to be
For those who don't know it, between 1978 and 1987, 'Zvečka' was a cafe bar and pastry shop in Massarykova Street halfway from 'Theatre' cafe bar also known as 'Kavkaz' to the pub 'Blato'. They are the ones who were the center of the art world at the time. The space between these three places was the center of the art universe because 'Zvečka' was so small that people who bought a drink at the bar had to go outside where they usually used cars as tables to put their drinks on. That area in front of 'Zvečka' and 'Theatre' cafe bar, as my cousin retells me 'cause I wasn't born yet at the time, was more or less 'reserved' for older generations. My cousin and his friends, who were younger generation, could hang out only near concrete flower pots in front of 'Small Kavkaz' and Croatian Nationale Theatre.
Image credit: Zdenko's Corner
Why Zagreb's Bermuda Triangle?
For the entire artistic-minded youth, it was the most popular place to be. That part of Massarykova Street, from 'Kavkaz' to the pub 'Blato', was once called the tobacco road or Bermuda Triangle, because between these two spaces was 'Zvečka'. It can be said that 'Zvečka' actually 'lived' on the street and on its sidewalks.
It was a gathering place that was so famous for being not only some cool cafe bar but also a place where you could arrange absolutely everything or find an address of a crazy party in the city. Also, there were some cases of starting newspapers.
They didn't have any chairs
There were no chairs at 'Zvečka' cafe bar. It was designed so that people would waste less time in bars, but guests of 'Zvečka' took care of that problem, at least during summer days. They would sit on the cars parked in front of the bar.
Even foreigners were coming to 'Zvečka'
While walking along Massarykova Street at the time, you could also see a lot of foreign car plates. Cars were coming from all over, not only from Croatia but also from Slovenia, Hungary, and Italy. Parking was the biggest problem in the whole story about 'Zvečka', a place which gave a ray of hope in the creation of a new cultural center of Zagreb.
Although 'Zvečka' managed to raise and educate those people who were interested in music, film, literature, and theater, it failed to generate any relevant authorial vision for Croatian music scene as well as supporting industry.
Image credit: Zdenko's Corner
What's left of 'Zvečka' today?
A little bit, almost nothing was left of 'Zvečka' today, only memories of bands that emerged and recorded their best songs in that period of time. Rock scene has never been stronger than in the 80s. Punk, rock and alternative styles were all mixed. There were no differences and divisions among these styles. So, the young generations listened to pretty much the same music.
The golden age of the Zagreb rock scene happened in the seventies and eighties. Rock bands like 'Azra', 'Film', 'Haustor', 'Prljavo kazalište', 'Parni valjak', 'Aerodrom' are still popular today. 'Zvečka' easily gathered not only rockers but also the entire Zagreb's artistic youth such as actors, athletes, journalists, photographers and many others.
Image credit: Zdenko's Corner
Today, if you come to Massarykova Street and try to look for 'Zvečka', it is certain that you will hardly notice a cafe bar considering that you were not a part of that generation. It was one ordinary small cafe bar that was able to accommodate only ten people. And if you wanted to squeeze the eleventh man into 'Zvečka' you would have to use a shoehorn. :) Believe me, it's the truth.
As I said, Zvečka lived on the street. It was the most popular place. But today, unfortunately, 'Zvečka' no longer exists. It disappeared in the Bermuda Triangle. All we have are just memories of 'Zvečka' and its golden years.
Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
Author: Nikolina Jozanović