The Comfort of Breaded Chicken
Is it the healthiest way of preparing meat? Not really, but it’s not like you eat it every day. Once in a while you can indulge in this popular, old and irresistible way of frying meat like chicken and turkey breasts or veal fillets. Breaded meat is practical because it can last longer and be eaten cold, it’s good on the go, and it also plays an important role in Zagreb’s culinary tradition.
"Zagreb steak is our most famous breaded meat dish, made with veal." Image credit: Vinodol FB
Breading is a cooking technique used in cuisines all over the world. Let’s just mention the French specialty Cordon bleu, or the Austrian Wiener schnitzel. Our own Zagreb schnitzel is also just another variation on this theme. What’s so special about covering a piece of lean meat in breadcrumbs, flour and eggs and then pan frying it? Apart from looking nice and inviting, being crispy and tasty, the crust is there to form a protective layer and preserve the aroma and juiciness of the meat. Sounds simple, but it takes a lot of practice and good ingredients to get that perfect crispy crust. There are several basic ways of breading, and what we use here is the Vienna method – the meat is rolled in wheat flour, then dunked in beaten eggs and finally it’s coated in breadcrumbs. Also, I recommend you to use pork fat for frying, it really makes a difference.
"Breaded meat just has this home-cooked, comfort food kind of appeal." Image credit: Mlinarica FB
One of the most iconic classic Zagreb family lunches is all about breaded chicken – pohani picek. All parts can be used, even the whole chicken, but mostly it’s the breast, or fillet, and drumsticks. People are usually divided into the breast or the drumstick type, and a lot about your personality is revealed depending on your preference. Nobody can forbid you to serve breaded chicken with, let’s say, mashed potatoes or steamed vegetables, but the old-fashioned way is to combine it with rizi bizi, our local interpretation of the Italian risi e bisi risotto, rice with peas. You can find the recipe for this all-time favourite here. Nothing more is needed, optionally some grated cheese for the risotto or a slice of lemon to sprinkle the chicken.
"Are you the breast or the drumstick type?" Image credit: Slavagora FB
Breaded chicken has always been a family treat because no child, no matter how picky he or she is, would refuse this delightfully crispy white meat specialty. That’s why it is so often on the table. And when our moms used to make it, they would make a lot. Breaded chicken can last for days, and can also be used for a hearty sandwich if you put it between two slices of bread with a condiment of choice, lettuce, even more. This quality made it favourite picnic and travel food in the old days, and I guess a lot of us have a memory of driving to the seaside with our parents and then making a stop halfway down to nibble on cold breaded drumsticks, with fresh tomatoes or whatever we had at hand.
"Breaded chicken served with rice and peas, and a slice of lemon – a classic Zagreb Sunday family lunch for generations." Image credit: Suhina FB
If you want to enjoy this old-school dish somewhere in a restaurant, it’s best to head to off-the-beaten-path rustic places in Zagreb surroundings focused on traditional home cooking. Pohani picek is almost the signature dish at the tucked-away Izletište Suhina by the Sava River, on the outskirts of the city. Another place where I was left licking my fingers after they served us golden-brown pieces of immaculately breaded and fried chicken is Slavagora family farm/restaurant in the hills above Samobor. Closer to the city, it’s often on the daily lunch menu at Mlinarica brewery and pub.
Yes, breading and frying meat will never go out of style no matter what the nutritionists might be telling us. In Zagreb it’s deep-rooted as part of our culinary heritage, and nothing says “You’re home, welcome, eat!” like a plate of hot breaded chicken with rice and peas.
"It’s greasy and it’s crispy, and you know you want it!" Image credit: My Way FB
Header image credit: CroChef
Author: Taste of Croatia / Morana Zibar