Heartbeat of Zagreb

Just Like a Movie

Get a sneak preview of an amazing city that is not only capable of winning an Oscar but it will enchant you and win your heart. We can film it, or even better we can experience it and live it.

The view which makes your blood run cold

As we start from the top with one of the best views of our capital, you are not aware of what awaits you. And to oversell it immediately, you're in for a real treat, my dear reader. The highest peak of our ˝bear-mountain’’ Medvednica is called Sljeme. The place where famous skiing siblings started their slope towards success. In the following years, young Ivica and Janica Kostelic became an icon in skiing world after winning literally everything that can be won in the aforementioned sport. Congrats to them but our journey continues downhill. With clear views of mesmerising Zagreb in the vicinity, we stumble upon a medieval beauty, the fortress Medvedgrad. Today, it’s a popular getaway from the hectic city and a venue to one of the coolest music festivals of Zagreb. It used to be an important stronghold and an escape plan for royal people for centuries. Even though the story of the fortress dates back to the 13th century, probably the most mentioned era in its history would be the rule of the Black Queen - Barbara of Cilli. Even today, just the mention of her name makes every local in the city nervous. A vicious queen that made a deal with the devil himself, used black magic and murdered her lovers by throwing them from the cliffs of the fortress, is still a much-discussed topic among the locals. Some claim that she even built underground tunnels that connect Medvedgrad with the nucleus of today's Zagreb. I see a potential for an award winning movie here. Whether you choose a slow summer breeze to carry you towards the city or the eerie tunnels filled with gold and secrets, it is time to advance with our quest.

 

The go-getter to look up to

While entering the city of Zagreb, our best orientation point is the Cathedral. Quite conveniently we picked the highest building in all of Croatia. Yes, the Cathedral is THE skyscraper in all of the country. I assure you, even though we are a small city architecturally speaking, we are a big hearted one! Let’s not neglect the best job application in the world with the Cathedral as the essential part of the interview. Back in the 1930’s, there was this guy who was extremely eager to become a firefighter. Since his formal application was rejected, he decided to try one more time with an informal one. Using just his hands and feet, he climbed on the top of one of the spires. Up there he started to jump and do handstands. Naturally, the crowd gathered around because everybody was convinced he was trying to commit suicide. When the fire brigade arrived on the scene, they got the explanation. The man said he was not trying to end his life, he was simply showing his abilities so they could reconsider his job application. Ladies and gentleman, he got the job and for the next decades, he was one of the best firefighters Zagreb brigade ever had! This sounds like an amazing plot for a movie, thank you Mr Mato Juricic Katedralec for helping us with that!

Cathedral trg

Image credit: Filip Donadic

 

Seen on screen

When talking about movies, I must inform you that there were world renowned directors and actors who embraced the charm and beauty of Zagreb. Orson Welles filmed his adaptation of the Franz Kafka novel – the Process. Also, one of my favourite action heroes and the best karaoke singer in the world Jackie Chan was also in our capital. He jumped across the biggest farmers market - Dolac on a motorcycle in the movie ''Armour of God''. Now, you have two good recommendations for a movie night, and our story continues.

Our next scene, the main square of Zagreb. That’s the one with a guy from the 20 kuna banknote that is waving his sword proudly on a horse in the middle of the square. This is a place of gathering and a focal point of the city. Even though some people are catching Pokémons here, there are greater stories in the making as we speak or as you read. Just position yourself next to THE Clock. As every local knows, this is the official place to wait for somebody on the Square. There will always be people here with their hidden agendas. I can’t help noticing this young guy with a rose in his hand. He’s maybe 16 years old, blue jeans and a nicely ironed checkerboard shirt. You can see he is nervous, maybe this is his first date and she is running a bit late.

Main Square Clock

Image credit: Filip Donadic

 

He will learn in time that the good ones are worth the wait :)

Is this a love movie announcement? You could never tell. Since we are starting the conversation about love, it would be wise to jump towards the most romantic promenade of Zagreb – the Strossmayer promenade. In addition to the make-out benches and natural shades provided by chestnut trees, there you will find an interesting character. I am referring to one of the last bohemians of Zagreb – A. G. Matos. We have already established Zagreb has more than enough appropriate spots to film a movie but who will play the characters? Luckily, if you just focus on the monuments in the town centre, you will find more than enough interesting materials and life stories for that. You could interpret most of the Zagreb's history simply by focusing on the statutes you would stumble upon - kings, viceroys, poets, scientists, novelists - the list continues. My personal favourite is the earlier mentioned Matos. A quirky gentleman, a deserter from the army, a great cafes and writing aficionado, and probably the most photographed statue of a dead poet in all of Croatia. He liked to spend his time in the oldest cafe of Zagreb that is still operational – Pod starim krovovima. As a newcomer in the city, it is important to know how to have an appropriate photo with Matos. Jump onto his lap! He does not mind and he always has a smile for you.

Matos Strossmayer promenade

Image credit: Filip Donadic

 

Underground secrets

As we started our voyage with the highest point of interest, the mountain Medvednica, let’s see how low or deep can we go? The newest asset of Zagreb's tourist offer is finally opened. The long expected tunnel Gric is here at your disposal to wander. The catacombs were allegedly built during the WWII era. This gives us enough material to plot a war movie or maybe a horror one? My favourite story of the tunnel is of neither themes. Are you up for a dance? The first techno party in Zagreb, or as the youngsters call it ˝the rave’’, was organised back in the 1990's exactly here in our tunnel. If this walls could talk, I’m certain they would share a lot of interesting stories and shake your booty tunes.

Gric tunnel

Image credit: Filip Donadic

 

My dear reader, what are we waiting for? We have all the essentials for a kick ass movie! The basics for the scriptwriting are here. We can film it, or even better we can experience it and live it. Get to know the city from different angles and perspectives. The streets of Zagreb and its citizens will help you with that. Get a sneak preview of an amazing city that is not only capable of winning an Oscar but it will enchant you and win your heart. Feel the pulse of the city and most of all #loveZagreb.

 

Header image credit: Filip Donadic

Author: Filip Donadic