Stairway to Zagreb: The Capital's Steps

For a visitor, stairs can feel like a potential wrong turn. Where do they go? Is there anything up there worth the climb? Should you keep walking along the familiar, easier, flatter streets instead?
My advice is... take the stairs!
Think about the rewards. You’re just a few steps away from the crowds, traffic, and the persistent noise. You’ll welcome the change, trust me. Enjoy the stone and wood in the tree shade. Even graffiti.
Here are five stairways worth climbing.

1. Alexander Steps

One of my favorite little escapes from Ilica starts at Dežman Passage and leads toward Rok Garden. The stairs are surrounded by trees, and on a hot day, the shade is a true blessing. The moment you step off Ilica and into Tuškanac, where the stairs begin, the temperature immediately drops by a couple of degrees.

Rok Garden really does feel like a garden. Old villas, greenery, and quiet paths make this part of the city feel surprisingly removed from the center.

When I was younger, I used to wander into every single passageway I could find, especially along Ilica. You'd be right to be suspicious of my motives, but my reason was purely exploratory. Parts of Rok Garden are actually incorporated into the interiors of some buildings, and some entrances even hide amazing, long-forgotten sculptures.

Right by the steps is Kino Tuškanac, a proper old-school movie theater that screens classic films exclusively. Go on a cinematic journey there. Or take the steps and start your own journey up the old stairs between the trees.

Either way, you're heading somewhere.

2. Schlosser Steps

From Drago Ibler Square, right by Importanne Galleria, the Schlosser Steps take you toward Šalata. They are among Zagreb's most recognizable stairways and probably the busiest ones.

Students, locals, people heading home, people heading out. The stairs have been part of the daily routine of generations of Zagreb residents, thanks in large part to the colleges, schools, bars, and neighborhoods they connect.

There is also something slightly grand about the climb. You start in the busy, tourist-filled and business-oriented Lower Town and slowly make your way toward a greener, more residential part of Zagreb. It feels as if you're climbing toward somewhere significant.

For all of you who haven’t seen the stairs yet, I have some news. The renovations finished just the other day, so they’re both new and classic.

3. Zakmardi Steps

These stairs connect Radićeva Street, just a few steps from Ban Jelačić Square, with Strossmayer Promenade. The passage there is steep, narrow, and full of character.

Take a breath and look back as you climb. The view opens onto Zagreb's rooftops, with the Cathedral standing out among them.

There is plenty to discover along the way, too. A wig shop, for one. It feels like a blast from the past and adds a touch of mystique. There’s also an alternative café that would probably be a sensation in Berlin, yet fits perfectly into the city center.

It’s quite a combination: 150-year-old stairs, the historic Upper Town, and vibrant, contemporary city life happening around them.

Keep climbing and you'll reach Strossmayer Promenade. A lot of people you'll see there aren't there just for a stroll. Yes, they're dating and flirting. It's quite a romantic walk.

Plus, if you keep walking, you’ll reach Grič, a proper tunnel open to the public. But that’s a story for another time.

4. Capuchin Steps

Some stairways have history. These have a story, too.

Locals sometimes call the Capuchin Steps Vještičje štenge, or the Witches' Stairs. According to local legend, witches used to gather here at night before heading toward the crossroads of Streljačka and Tuškanac for secret meetings and rituals.

Spooky, if you believe in that sort of thing. But the stairs themselves certainly help paint the picture. Wooden, old, slightly mysterious, they run alongside the remains of Zagreb's old defensive walls and lead from Mesnička Street toward the Gradec plateau, near Lotrščak Tower.

Take them when the city is sleeping and the whole place starts to feel like a different era.

As for me, they make me feel like the main character in a vintage spy movie. Even without a raincoat and a hat.

5. Felbinger Steps

The Felbinger Steps are a cute urban detail connecting Tkalčićeva and Radićeva Street, near Krvavi Most (the Blood Bridge).

They are short, charming, and easy to miss. They are one of my favorite transitions in this part of the city.

At the lower end, you have Tkalča with its lively terraces, visitors, restaurants, and summer crowds. Take the stairs and within a minute you’ll find yourself somewhere quieter, breathing in the atmosphere of the old city.

It feels like stepping out of one version of Zagreb and into another.

Take a few steps and see where they lead. Make the journey your destination.

Conclusion

There are many ways to explore Zagreb. You can follow the main streets, visit the famous sights, and check the boxes on your list. Like a regular person who’s just visiting.

Or… you can look up.

A staircase will take you to parts of the city even some locals never visit. It's simply out of their way. These walks are pure joy and aesthetics. The very reason why people travel. To relax and unwind. If someone’s into ticking boxes and completing tasks rather than actually experiencing the essence of the city, maybe they should just stay at home and practice math. 

No offense. Some of my best friends love math.

Long story short, the next time you see a staircase in Zagreb, take it.

In Zagreb, if you go above, you go beyond.

Header image credit:

Author: Boris Stojanović