Upper Town Nights: A Casual Romance

When the streets get quieter and the heat finally loses its grip, Upper Town starts to feel vintage and charming.

Walk through it without much of a plan. Watch the city lights come on. Find a bench. Listen to someone playing the guitar. Or simply wander around and see where the evening takes you.

Personally, it’s the kind of romance I like. No reservations, no particular dress code, no plans.

Just Zagreb showing its shy, romantic side.

The Lotrščak Viewpoint

Photo: Fotografije Zagreba

Start your evening where Zagreb slowly turns the lights on. Below the Lotrščak Tower, the city opens up in front of you. You’ll see the rooftops of the Lower Town stretching all the way to the horizon, all the way to the city's outer lines.

Pro tip: come a little before the sunset. You’ll get the last and sweetest bit of daylight, when the colors in the sky turn red and start going darker and darker. Then, the first city lights start flickering.

Stay for a while and take it in. There is something really satisfying about watching a city of a million change its mood.

Vraz Promenade

Photo: Fotografije Zagreba

Once the panorama settles in, keep walking down. You’ll soon find yourself on Vraz Promenade, a shady little passage along the western edge of Upper Town.

This is where Zagreb gets a little more intimate.

Don’t worry, candle lovers, you’ll love this part. On Saturday evenings, candles light up the promenade and someone usually plays some light acoustic music. So find a bench, get a glass of wine for the two of you, and enjoy the music. 

The trees stand above you, the city lies below. No big occasion, just a regular summer night in Zagreb.

Strossmayer Promenade

Photo: Fotografije Zagreba

From Vraz Promenade, make your way toward Strossmayer Promenade. It follows the southern walls of the old town, with tall horse chestnut trees casting shade over the path.

Take your time. No need to rush. There’s usually a breeze, a few street artists performing, and plenty of people enjoying the evening. Once you’re there, you’ll see the Lower Town’s dimmed lights.

In the summer, Stross (that’s the AKA we use) has a slightly retro feel to it. Maybe it’s the old walls, maybe it’s the trees. Maybe it’s the music drifting through the air. Whatever it is, it definitely works.

Keep walking and let the city spread out below you.

St. Mark’s Square

Photo: Fotografije Zagreba

Later on, head toward St. Mark’s Square and wander through the streets around it. You can feel the history here. St. Mark’s Church is one of the most recognizable symbols of Zagreb because of its colorful checkered roof. 

The Parliament and the Government also reside here, on opposite sides of the square. There’s something almost poetic about the idea of balance there.

But, back to the program. During the day, this is one of the busiest parts of Upper Town. Visitors come to see the historic buildings around the square. At night, the crowds thin out and the whole place seems to hit pause until morning.

The streets get quiet. The old buildings seem mysterious. Gas lamps cast their warm light over the history and cobblestones.

There’s no particular destination here. Just the feeling of being somewhere very old, very quiet, but still very much alive.

For a few minutes, you might even forget you’re in the middle of a capital city.

The Gas Lighter Ritual

Photo: Fotografije Zagreba

When the daylight starts disappearing, Zagreb brings out one of its oldest evening rituals.

Around dusk, you may spot a man carrying a long pole from one gas lamp to the next. He lights them by hand, one after another, the same way the city’s gas lamps have been lit for more than 160 years.

It’s a small performative ritual, but so vintage! That’s what makes it so charming.

You can simply stop and watch. No ticket, no schedule, no special occasion. A man making a row of old-fashioned street lamps slowly come to life.

Conclusion

Have you ever wondered if you’ll ever fall in love again? Well, a walk in the Upper Town could do the trick. 

The thing is, you can’t force romance. That’s why being casual is the way to go. Zagreb is the perfect spot for this type of emotion. 

Take your partner by the hand and enjoy the gentle side of the city. The streets, buildings and squares will remind you of what you’ve maybe forgotten, and at the same time, they’ll bring you something new into your life. You won’t be the same person you were a few hours ago.

Let Zagreb’s Upper Town do its magic.

Header Image Credit: Fotografije Zagreba

Author: Boris Stojanović