Chestnuts - From Forest with Love
You know those street vendors selling corn on the cob all summer long? When you see them switching to roasted chestnuts, that’s the official sign the autumn/winter season has arrived. Whether you’re looking forward to it or not, that’s up to you, but I think I don’t know a person who is not looking forward to chestnut season. You’ll notice beautiful big chestnuts trees all over downtown Zagreb parks and streets (watch your head for those spiky little balls), but these are not edible at all. The edible ones are to be found on trees in the wild. Medvednica Mountain, hills and forests around Zagreb are full of them and many people will spend sunny autumn weekends foraging. Fear not, there’s enough for everyone, and market vendors will also be offering plenty of this forest fruit. The most appreciated and expensive kind is called maruni, which you can immediately recognize because they’re much bigger than the local ones. They come from Kvarner region, especially from forests around the towns of Lovran and Opatija. Of course, that doesn’t mean that Zagreb chestnuts are second-rate and less tasty.
“Street roasting action.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Roasted chestnuts from the street are usually everyone’s first encounter with these nuts. It takes time to peel them, your hands and nails get dirty, but it’s worth it. If you’re roasting them at home and happen to have some fresh wine must at hand, that’s a perfect match. But Portugizac, seasonal young wine from Plešivica region, will do the trick, too. Although portions from street vendors might look small at first, chestnuts are actually very filling and full of carbs. Which is why they make great material for desserts. Enter kesten pire (chestnut puree), classic dessert which hasn’t changed a bit since my childhood. Definitely one of winter’s best comfort foods in the sweet category. Sounds simple, but it’s quite tricky to prepare: cleaned and boiled chestnuts are pureed, mixed with sugar and maybe a bit of rum or vanilla, forced through a ricer, and then served with whipped cream and grated chocolate. This basic puree mixture can then be used for making more elaborate desserts, cakes, rolls, ice cream. Chestnuts pair well with chocolate, sour cherries, quinces. Marmelade is an option, too, but it’s quite neglected in these parts. Probably because we’re suckers for puree, and already have our pantries full of other kinds of homemade jams.
“One of zillion versions of chestnut cake.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Chestnuts and savoury dishes? Yes, why not! First of all, a cream of chestnut soup to warm you up. The puree is multifunctional and can be used to make rich creamy sauce to go with meat dishes like filet mignon, venison steak, even rabbit. Chestnuts like the company of mushrooms, fellow forest fruits, which are also abundant in this time of the year. As far as traditional recipes in northwestern Croatia suggest, chestnuts can be used as stuffing for game bird roasts to upgrade them to a top-notch delicacy. Roast goose or duck with root vegetables and chestnuts on the side is a perfect example. Of course, dish like that demands a special occasion and big family gathering. And those who have hunters in the family might get really lucky and try the very promising combination of pheasant and chestnuts. However, turkey and chicken meat can also be used for exploring the potentials of chestnuts in main course dishes.
“Fresh chestnuts, still dressed up.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Some countries have the tradition of using chestnuts to make flour. This might not be a bad idea at all, but I’m glad we don’t do that. As long as most of Croatian chestnuts end up in beautiful desserts or simply roasted and enjoyed on a cold evening, we are perfectly satisfied.
Header image credit: Taste of Croatia
Author: Taste of Croatia