Comfort food on the Mountain

Luckily, Mother Nature was kind enough to give Zagrebians Medvednica. That’s the big green mountain overlooking Zagreb on the north, and its peak (1035 m) is called Sljeme. Medvednica is a nature park, the beloved hiking destination and weekend getaway for many locals. Most importantly, it provides the much needed refreshment and coolness in summer, as the temperature up there is always lower than in the city itself. Numerous hiking trails and mountain huts cater for all kinds of outdoor lovers, from grandparents and kids to serious hiking freaks.

“One of many mountain-hut style restaurants” Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board

Every time I go hiking on Medvednica, one thing is always the same - while you’re walking, sweating and cursing the person that talked you into this ordeal, you’re thinking of the beautiful food waiting in the mountain hut at the end of the trail. Although it’s simple, basic and very old-school, there’s something about Medvednica food. And not just because after a long and exhausting hike you could eat just anything, like tree bark or raw acorns. Wooden benches, red checkered table cloths, relaxed atmosphere, smiling faces and food in Medvednica’s mountain huts also stand for comfort and familiarity. The menu is more or less the same in all huts, only the quality can vary. Location and ambience are often the main criteria when chosing your spot.

“Not a bad spot for a nice outdoor lunch.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

So, what’s the favourite grub of Zagreb’s weekend hikers? For starters, or as a whole but very humble meal, locals love the traditional sir i vrhnje - fresh cottage cheese mixed with cream. Some bacon and onion on the side is a welcome bonus. In the warm food department, 9 out of 10 people go for a bowl of traditional bean stew, with or without a sausage. Mind you, during winter this dish is upgraded with sauerkraut or turnip. When you’re hungry like a bear that used to roam these woods centuries ago, there’s always a nice roast - pork, veal, or turkey. Breaded chicken might sound boring, but on the mountain it can be quite a delicacy. Side dishes include mlinci pasta or restani krumpir - boiled potato sauted with onion and lard.  It’s nice if you stumble into a place where they’re doing kotlovina - pork meat with vegetables slowly prepared in a special cast iron pot. And for dessert, the all-round homemade strudel is guaranteed to satisfy your sweet tooth. From personal experience, cold beer or gemišt (white wine with sparkling mineral water) never taste as good as on a mountain hut terrace while the sun is drying your sweaty T-shirt, the birds are chirping and you’re blankly staring in the forest.

“A typical Medvednica hiker’s lunch” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

In front of every hut you’ll also see well-prepared and obviously experienced groups of hikers or families who bring their own food and all the picnic equipment. There will be plenty of bacon, salami, onion, tomatoes, breaded chicken, homemade pies, vacuum flasks... It’s normal to feel envy watching them munch while you’re still waiting for your food during peak hours in the hut. But soon all your needs will be satisfied and that zen feeling will come again, to prepare you for the tiresome walk down. There are also cheaters who come all the way up by car and go to a restaurant directly. I always tell myself that their food can’t taste as good as mine well-deserved hiker’s meal. But no matter how or why you get there, a trip to Medvednica will surely refill your batteries, relax you and give you strength to get back to your weekday routine.

“Apple strudel with a view” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board

Author: Taste of Croatia