Mlinci: Let’s Make Some Dough

Mixing flour and water is such a simple, old and universal recipe in almost all traditional cuisines of the world that you are likely to find some sort of native pasta or noodle dish throughout the countries of Europe. Yes, the Italians have popularized and perfected pasta, but many parts of Croatia can claim a typical pasta product of their own, like fuži, pljukanci, žrnovski makaruni, posutice etc. These are all countless variations on a theme. But then we come to Zagreb and the surrounding Zagorje region and stumble upon a native dish called mlinci, definitely one of the most iconic items on our national menu. We usually describe it to foreigners as “a kind of our local pasta”, but in all its simplicity, it’s much more complex than that.

“Tender mlinci and tender meat - a perfect match.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Made only from wheat flour, water and salt, mlinci is kind of a combination of flatbread and pasta. Basically, you make the dough, roll it into a very thin sheet and bake in the oven, or even better - on a wood stove. After all the effort to form this perfect sheet, what else, you break it into little pieces before the final preparation. When the time arrives, you pour boling water or broth over mlinci and wait for all the pieces to soften a bit, yet not to become too soaked and mushy. But that’s not all. The cherry on top is quickly sauteing mlinci in fat just before serving. They are typically eaten as a side dish with roast turkey, duck or goose, even chicken can do the trick if there’s no other solution, so the juice dripping from the roasted bird is the ideal material for that final touch. Veal or pork could work as a somewhat unorthodox alternative, but keep mlinci away from classic red meat like beef or game.

“Excellent roast duck and mlinci at Braje winery and restaurant in Plešivica.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Big holiday meals such as Christmas Eve or New Year’s dinner, as well as the wine lovers’ favourite holiday - St. Martin’s Day - are literally empty without a good roast with mlinci. Yet, you can also find this local dish on any occasion as lunch special in places ranging from old-school workplace cafaterias and traditional restaurants to my kid’s kindergarten menu, agritourism eateries and mountain huts on Medvednica Mountain. The quality will also vary a lot, and the main criterion is the texture of mlinci. It has to find the perfect balance between soggyness and toughness. Even though the preparation may sound easy peasy, almost no one makes their own mlinci at home nowadays. This lost art is mostly left to skillful grandmas in rural areas, who use experience and instinct to make it, rather than precise measuring and by-the-book approach. And it’s been passed on like that from generation to generation.

“Crispy roasted poultry on a bed of mlinci.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Of course, you can find plenty of pre-prepared and packaged mlinci in all supermarkets and next-door grocereris. All the big bakery companies produce it and have a standard level of quality, but maybe it would be best to buy mlinci made by a small family farm, which are hand-made, usually using flour. Then again, you can also take up the challenge and try to make mlinci at home, from scratch. Even if the outcome isn’t edible, the experience will be worthy. In any case, visiting Zagreb and not trying a nice juicy roast with mlinci is a similar fail like coming to Italy and not having a pasta dish. 

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Taste of Croatia