Something Fishy in Zagreb

It’s not on the coast, so Zagreb doesn’t seem like a place where you would go for seafood? Well, you’d be surprised.

Zagreb actually has a well-developed and diversified seafood scene. First of all, Croatia is a Mediterranean country, and its capital is only an hour-and-a-half ride away from the seaside. Outside the high season, from autumn to spring, there are not that many tourists on the sea, many restaurants are closed, so the demand for fresh fish and other edible sea creatures is not really high. Most of the good stuff ends up in Zagreb, on its markets. From there it goes directly to our homes or to numerous seafood eateries. So think again before crossing out Zagreb as the place to enjoy fresh and well-prepared seafood.

“Nothing beats a perfectly grilled fresh Adriatic fish.” Image credit: Korkyra restaurant

There’s a whole range of categories when it comes to seafood restaurants. On top of the pyramid, you have the very few fine dining places. A few decades ago, back in the socialist times, they were crème de la crème of the dining scene, expensive and reserved for special occasions only. Nowadays, fine dining based on seafood has gone more international and modern, drawing inspiration from fusion of different cuisines, styles and ingredients. The perfect example is Dubravkin put, one of the best upscale restaurants in Zagreb, in general. Although not restricted to seafood anymore, it is their forte, but with a very creative approach.

“Some serious dining based on seafood is to be found in Dubravkin put.” Image credit: Dubravkin put

The second category would be “ordinary” seafood restaurants, which rely on classic recipes and tradition, but with a touch of class. Here you go for fresh, first-rate shellfish and white fish knowingly prepared, without any surprises. Again, not an everyday experience, yet still affordable once in a while. There used to be a lot more restaurants of this kind a couple of decades ago, but somehow they are not sought after that much anymore. Bota Šare is reliable and delivers what you expect. As a branch restaurant of the original located in Mali Ston, they are especially known for oysters. Less exclusive seafood-based restaurants that have stood the test of time - some with more, some with less success - include downtown Tip-top and Korčula. However, they are more of a lunch stop place than a fine dinner option.

“Fresh seashells can be a feast on their own or a very satisfying starter.” Image credit: Bota Šare

Then you have something called konoba, which is the Dalmatian term for a traditional tavern. It is a restaurant, but more casual and informal, without a very elaborate menu. Since many Zagrebians are of Dalmatian descent, konoba is like a natural habitat for them. For the rest of us, it’s a cosy place that feeds our nostalgia for the seaside and summer holidays. Good table wine, cheese, dry-cured ham, olives, salted anchovies and simple grilled fish is what you come for. Konoba Dida is one of those places. A lot of konoba spirit can also be found in neighbourhood eateries like Jadera and Marenda.

“Black risotto made with cuttlefish is a standard menu item in many seafood restaurants.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Something between a restaurant and fast food, comparable to a bistro maybe, can be found in the more recent and modern place called Ribice i tri točkice. The concept is to offer value-for-money simple and unpretentious dishes based on the catch of the day. One of my personal favourites is to be found at Dolac farmers’ market, right next to the fish market. Amfora is quite neglected and ignored - the interior hasn’t changed for decades, the service is very basic, food presentation is out-dated – but this little gem owned by a fishmonger serves deliciously fresh seafood prepared in the simplest ways.

“Lively interior of Ribice i tri točkice seafood bistro.” Image credit: Ribice i tri točkice

Finally, we have the category of fast food. In spite of the potential in a Mediterranean country like Croatia, not many seafood fast foods and food stands have survived in Zagreb. Yet, Mimice buffet in Jurišićeva Street is still standing, almost like a monument of its kind. With a tradition longer than 70 years, this little joint that serves heaps of cheap fried fish and calamari really hasn’t changed much at all. Will this be the best seafood meal in your life? Hardly, but this place will always have its audience and cult status in Zagreb’s collective memory.

“These beauties have no problem finding their way from the Adriatic to the kitchens of Zagreb.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

So when you are in the mood for fresh fish, longing for a touch of the Adriatic, it doesn’t really matter that Zagreb is a couple of hundred kilometres away from the coast, it can still provide a nice seafood experience, ranging from a quick lunch break to a fancy dinner.

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Taste of Croatia