Gastro

Spoonful of Comfort

From children probably never, but here's a sentence you'll often hear from adults in Croatia: „I just want to eat something with a spoon“.

It definitely sounds better in Croatian. And we all know what it means. The person that desires some „spoon food“ actually wants a good old-fashioned thick soup or a stew, a bowl of comfort food transporting us back to childhood and grandma's kitchen. The need for this is the strongest in times of bad eating habits, for example when you work too much and don't have time for a proper cooked meal so you're on a junk food spree for days. Or, typical for December, when you overeat repeatedly because of all those pre-Christmas parties you have to attend, when holiday gatherings revolve around table and food, when even the leftovers have their own leftovers and you simply overdose on heavy foods and desserts. After this gorging marathon, your body needs something warm, liquid, soothing and simple. Yes, something you eat with a spoon. And I'm giving you my list of eight favourite spoon-based traditional local dishes, in random order. (Disclaimer: It's winter, don't expect a plethora of veggies).

“Beans are always there to make a filling and tasty stew.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Grah varivo (Bean stew)

A life saver, available all year round, especially at simple lunchtime places, canteens and mountain hut restaurants. It can be just a thick bean soup, or a richer version with upgrades like sausages, dried meat, pasta, sauerkraut or sour turnip. If you make the bean stew with barley, you get a very popular subgenre called ričet.

Kelj varivo (Kale stew) / Kalja

Every child's worst nightmare becomes comfort food a few decades later. You'll never see it in glossy magazine recipes or TV cooking shows, but a bowl full of thick soup made with kale, potato and just a few basic ingredients can really bring the dead back to life. Of course, you can also serve it with faširanci (meat patties).

“It's that winning combination of beans, root vegetables, barley and just the right amount of dried meat.” Image credit: Pivnica i pivovara Mlinarica FB

Poriluk varivo (Leek stew)

Also an object of disgust from my childhood memories, it is quite similar to kale stew, but often with the addition of milk or cream. Needless to say, bacon or sliced sausages do wonders here. Substitute green beans for leek and you get a similar kind of stew, but more appropriate in late spring or early summer, the season of fresh green beans.

“Kale is not much on its own, but it is destined for a nice stew with cured dried meat.” Image credit: Pivnica i pivovara Mlinarica FB

Juneći gulaš (Baby beef goulash)

In the big goulash family, baby beef is probably the most basic and neutral one. Tender meat, some root vegetables, some potatoes, tomato paste, just a wee bit spicy... Not so super light perhaps, but definitely filling and comforting. Add white wine and you can call it vinski gulaš – wine goulash.

“Goulash is a great dish because the principle is easy – anything goes.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Grašak s noklicama (Thick pea soup with dumplings)

This is actually an iconic springtime dish, celebrating fresh young vegetables, but hey, as long as there are frozen peas, we can cheat. Along with the peas, throw in some carrots, onion, herbs, spices and the signature little dumplings made from egg and flour. Apart from being healthy and healing, this is one of rare thick soups we can call Instagramable.

Špek fileki (Tripe with bacon)

OK, not for everyone's taste, and not light at all, but very good for warming you, curing a hangover or just cheering you up in long winter days. It's Zagreb style tripe soup with bacon. Don't forget to sprinkle it with some grated cheese.

“Love it or hate it, but give tripe with bacon at least one chance.” Image credit: Pivnica i pivovara Mlinarica FB

Zagorska juha (Zagorje soup)

Too heavy to be just a soup, that's why you never order it as a starter in restaurants because you wouldn't be able to eat anything else afterwards. But this thick soup has it all and gives you energy for the whole day. Root vegetables, bacon, paprika, porcini mushrooms or a mix of your choice, sour cream. And naturally, white wine.

Sekeli gulaš (Székely Gulyás)

Yes, another goulash, and obviously originating from Hungary. Sauerkraut screams winter, and this goulash combines the comfort of a spoon-friendly dish and the healing powers of fermented cabbage. Lard, sauerkraut, onion, diced pork, some spices, that's all you need for this really thick stew with a rewardingly long shelf life.

“Find some vegetables and meat and stew them, your stomach will be grateful.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Morana Zibar/Taste of Croatia