Zagreb Locals: The Art of Shoemaking as It Once Was
Zagreb is special for so many reasons, and many of those are already mentioned on this website, but one thing is for certain- there is something really special about a family business that has been around for 80 years and three generations. That family business is shoemaking, and it is not for women, but for men. That's right, Cipele Igrec has been making handmade shoes for men since 1937.
Image credit: Cipele Igrec Facebook Page
The history behind the shop
Mr Zdrako Igrec started working here with his father Vjekoslav, who learned from his father. "My grandfather started this business back in 1937. My father took over after that, and I started spending time in his shop as a kid. I was only 6 when my father took over the business back in 1967. As time went by, I started spending more and more time doing little things here and there, while watching my father and learning his craft from him." Years went by, and Mr Zdravko became the owner of this family craft. During our conversation, I noticed that he is a real Zagrebian who loves making shoes for stylish Zagrebian men.
It was really interesting to hear him talk about what fashion was like before, compared to what it is now, and how the fashion industry has changed over time. "Back in the day, 30 or 40 years ago, there used to be many craftsmen in Zagreb. A lot of shoemakers, tailors and dressmakers, even peddlers. Everything used to be handmade, it was completely normal to have your dress, or a suit made just for you, using your measures. Today things are different, people prefer fast fashion, but that hasn't discouraged us."
Image credit: Cipele Igrec Facebook Page
The shoemaking process
I was also interested in hearing how long the process of making a handmade pair of leather shoes was, and I was surprised to learn that it actually isn't as long as I thought it would be. "It usually takes us about 3-4 days to make a pair of leather shoes, but it doesn't mean we only do one pair during those days. It takes us a few days because shoes have to be in a mould for at least two days so that they take over the shape that we want. First, we take the measures, of course, and after that, we make the shape of the shoe. It's teamwork really, one person does the first part and then another person stitches the upper and the lower part of the shoe." Since it's a process that takes a few days, when there are a lot of orders it can take up to 2 weeks before your pair of shoes gets to be made. But let's be real, who would complain? I think it only shows that people recognize the quality of the product that they want and they are ready to wait as long as they have to.
Image credit: Cipele Igrec Facebook Page
Also, this shop in Jurišićeva 7 really justifies it's slogan "Shoes for exceptional boys." It is sophisticated and old-timely, really makes you feel like you went back to a time when men got their shoes and suits made by measure. I could already imagine my grandfather getting his shoes made and then going on a date with my grandmother. That is why I was interested in how the Igrec showroom survived the earthquake and the flood, which both happened within a few months of each other. Luckily, Mr Zdravko said that there has been no damage and that the showroom got through it without a scratch. "We were really lucky since our showroom is right next to Zagreb's main square where both the earthquake and the flood did a lot of damage to other shops, crafts and facilities. We can't complain."
Image credit: Cipele Igrec Facebook Page
Insider recommendations from a true Zagrebian
Following up on the observation that Mr Zdravko seems like a real Zagrebian, I asked him about his favourite places in Zagreb. Jokingly he said "Let me tell you right away. I am not the type of person that goes to fancy restaurants. I am old fashioned regarding food so I like to get a proper old school meal like Zagrebians used to eat back in the day. If you are interested in that type of cuisine, I would recommend a restaurant called Staro gnijezdo (which literally means Old nest) in Markuševec." According to Mr Zdravko, they are the only restaurant in Zagreb that makes grilled carp that has that woody scent from quality wood used to make the fire. For dessert, he recommends the apple pie. I don't know about you, but my mouth is watering right now.
After a great foodie talk, Mr Zdravko also shared that in his free time he likes to go for walks to Sljeme and drink a cup of coffee at the lookout in park Maksimir. He laughed when he said that Zagreb's ZOO is better than it has ever been and that he would definitely recommend it along with Zagreb's museums.
And there you have it. If you decide to treat yourself to a really nice pair of shoes that will last you a very long time, you should definitely do it at Cipele Igrec. After that, you can ask Mr Zdravko for a great lunch recommendation. :)
Header image credit: Cipele Igrec Facebook Page
Author: Ivona Kezić