More than Words

A Tale Of Medvedgrad Fortress

If you stand in the middle of my street at night and look towards Medvednica, you can clearly see the fortress, all lit up in the night. As I like to say, it almost looks like it is floating in the dark above the city.

If you have ever visited Zagreb, you may have noticed a mystic fortress situated right above the city on  Medvednica hill. Well, it is called Medvedgrad and it is one of Zagreb’s most recognizable landmarks.

Image credit: J. Duval, TZGZ

A Short History Lesson

Medvedgrad fortress is a medieval castle and has a pretty long and interesting history. It used to protect the city of Zagreb located right beneath it, for an incredible eight centuries, since it was built in 1254. I can only imagine what those stone walls have witnessed during all those years.


Image credit: Darija Ilić

The reason Medvedgrad was built, was the devastating march of Tatars. They destroyed and burned the whole Zagreb area in the 13th century, which back then consisted of two small hills, Kaptol and Gradec. Medvedgrad and its strong stone walls were built to protect ordinary Zagrebians but also bishops and their fortune from these kinds of attacks in the future. But, ironically, Medvedgrad was never attacked. There is a very well-known 15th century folk tale of the Black Queen, Barabara Celjski, who is said to have terrorized the citizens of Gradec so much that many of them fled the area and their homes in hopes of a better life.

The fortress was abandoned for good in 1590 after the great earthquake which shook the Zagreb area and left Medvedgrad in ruins. Only in 1979 the first archaeological research of the Medvedgrad area began. In 1994 while the Croatian Independence war was slowly ending, a special monument with eternal flame called the Altar of the homeland was built under the south Medvedgrad tower as a memorial to all the Croatian soldiers who lost their lives defending the country.

Image credit: Darija Ilić

My View of Medvedgrad

As I live in Bukovac, one of Zagreb's neighbourhoods situated on the hills of Medvednica mountain, I have had a view of Medvedgrad since I was born. If you stand in the middle of my street at night and look towards Medvednica, you can clearly see the fortress, all lit up in the night. As I like to say, it almost looks like it is floating in the dark above the city.

I also have very fond memories of Medvedgrad. One of the earliest ones I have is my parents taking me and my brother on autumn walks towards Medvedgrad. We would walk through the woods and collect chestnuts along the way which was a really exciting experience for a three-year-old. To this day, my parents always tell the story of how I was so little and could barely walk but I managed to climb all the way to the fortress on my own. I guess Medvedgrad was too intriguing to stop walking. Even for a three-year-old. :) 

Image credit: M. Vrdoljak, TZGZ

Medvedgrad Today

Today, Medvedgrad is in the process of reconstruction, and it is closed for now. Before the coronavirus pandemic and reconstruction, it offered a museum and stunning views of Zagreb from its stone walls. It was also, from time to time, a unique setting for unforgettable parties and concerts during the summer months when Zagrebians would escape the city heat on the hills of Medvednica.

Image credit: J. Duval, TZGZ

I hope it will soon shine again in all its glory and welcome many new visitors after the coronavirus pandemic settles.

If you want to learn more about this mystical Zagreb fortress visit the official website, here.

Header image credit: D. Rostuhar, TZGZ

Author: Darija Ilić