Črnomerec - where Zagreb ends and begins again
Did you ever felt like a part of something bigger? Like a small wheel in a perfectly wound up watch ticking its way into eternity. That is just how I feel watching big masses commuting at Črnomerec terminal. Even though they are all practically running, I picture them in slowmotion and think about their lives: some of them need to travel from Zagreb to other, smaller cities, away from all the city lights and billboards. Some of them just found out that they have passed the exam they had been studying for ages, and some of them just recieved some bad news. There really is something universally connecting in places predisposed for big crowds, and Črnomerec neighbourhood is that kind of a place. A place to be so small, but in a good way.
Image credit: Marko Vrdoljak, Zagreb Tourist Board
So, when feeling a bit disconnected, I head up to this western part of the city because I know that simply watching all of those people passing by will satisfy my need for daydreaming. While walking through Ilica street, which is Zagreb's lifeline I rejoice this meeting with one of the biggest neighbourhoods in Zagreb becuse I know that, if I want to feel a bit of urban chic, I can easily hang out at the souther part of Črnomerec, but if I want a contemplative silent walk amongst small friendly streets, I can easily switch to northern part. Family houses with big courtyards and watchdogs proudly guarding their territory is a pretty common sight here, and it somehow just feels like home.
Where it all began
It would be underestimating and unmannerly not to mention that Črnomerec was there before Zagreb. How do I know this stuff, you ask me? Well, archeological sites in the area of Črnomerec (Lower Kustošija) and neighboring districts Podsused-Vrapče (Veternica Cave) indicate that there were people living in this area already in the prehistoric times, more than 35,000 years ago. So, basically, Črnomerec area was a civilizaton foundation for what we know today as Zagreb. Pretty breathtaking, right?
But, that isn't the remotely biggest ace in Črnomerec sleeve considering that Medvedgrad fort situates in this lovely neighbourhood. And believe me, that meant something in the Middle Ages. Trade, traffic, merchandiseing an craftmenship - those were the main nouns describing people's dependance on this area and, with a little help of Lady Luck, this area became a pretty advisable place to start a family. That was then, but the situation did not changed now either. remember the urban/friendly suburban neighbourhood switch from the beggining of the story? Yes, that is the one.
Medvedgrad truly is a valuable jewl of Črnomerec's past. Especially beautiful and well-preserved structures are Romanesque defense tower, a unique Romanesque-Gothic Chapel of St Philip and James, Gothic palace and a freshwater well that made the life in the fortress possible, even the Black Queen's one, the infamous ruler of the fort whose name raise many eybrows even though she is gone for more than 500 years.
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
Two steps foward
Reminiscing some history lessons to share with you dear reader, I found myself in front of Rudolph barracks, a big 19th century historical building complex originally build for industrial purposes. Staring in this impressive archeological site, which, by the way is now a cultural site and protected for that purpose. But, don't get fooled by all the history facts, this precious cultural heritage did not fall into the oblivion. Some of the Ministries headquarters are situated in this very spot, as wellas the Institue for Croatian language, at least is that what I have read on the buildings board. It is going to be dark soon, so I keep strolling down Ilica because I want to get to the terminal to catch the after work rush :).
Just ten minutes later, I ran into my friend living in this part of the town. I decided to break my peripathethic stream of thoughts and grab a cup of coffee with her. Considering I am not a local here, the choice of the caffe was hers. So she took me to Elite, a big and cozy caffe bar. Chatting over how comfortable I feel in this neighbourhood I found out about another hidden gems that I was no aware of before: Forest Park Grmoščica, situated just ten minutes of walk from the teminal. Can you believe this polarity? Masses and masses of people rushing through their daily schedule and just a few miles away a big green oasis of peace and fresh air. Kind of reminded me of Central Park, don't you agree?
After the chit chat I finally make it to the terminal. It is doing its cosmic dance of repetitiveness and I am silently watching, thinking about how, sometimes the only way to meet the city is to visit the place where it ends and begins, like Črnomerec. It is a microorganism living for itself, but still well rounded up into Zagreb's ecosystem. How could you not #LoveZagreb?
Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
Author: Lana Suša