Stairways of Zagreb – The View Worth the Climb
In the 19th century, Kaptol and Gradec, the two biggest settlements on today’s territory of Croatia’s capital, were joined into one town. The eastern part, Kaptol, was mostly inhabited by the clergy and was located on, what we now call, the Upper Town of Zagreb. The western part, also the larger one - Gradec, was inhabited mainly by craftsmen and merchants and was located in the Lower town of Zagreb. Obviously, before technology and machines, people had to find a way to reach upper parts of the city and that’s why Croatia’s capital has, until this day, many well-preserved stairways all around the town. Using the funicular might seem an easier way, especially if you’re in Zagreb for a short period of time and you want to see as much as possible. But believe me when I say that stairways of Zagreb are perfect for capturing the soul of this city and discovering historical heritage that locals are so proud of.
So let’s start from the beginning. Right next to the funicular, in Tomiceva Street, you’ll find a wooden narrow stairway leading straight to the top of Zagreb city centre. If you decide to climb there, you will be rewarded with the breathtaking panorama of Zagreb. Whenever I go there, I always imagine what it was like in earlier centuries when countesses had to take the same route in their wide gowns, maybe even with hats decorated with flowers and bows. So if you’re having a hard time while climbing and can’t catch your breath, just think of them and what it was like to go up and down on hot summer days – not so easy being a princess when you give it some thought, right?
Image Credit: Marko Vrdoljak, Zagreb Tourist Board
Once you’re done taking pictures at the top of this stairway, mingle around the Upper Town, enjoy beautiful architecture, and treat yourself with a cup of coffee and a piece of cake for a magnificent endeavor of conquering your first stairway in Zagreb before going back down using different stairways. Zakmardijeve stube or Zakmardij’s stairway will take you right down to Radiceva Street which then leads to Zagreb main city square - Ban Josip Jelacic Square. There’s a very mystical aura enveloping these stairs and I can’t quite comprehend why this is so. Still, you’ll just have to take my word for it and see if for yourself.
Image Credit: Zagreb.hr, Davor Eterović
Ther is a special stairway without any name attached to it, located at Dubravkin put, which is basically a park looking like a forest with tiny fairies dancing around. It might sound romantic and playful, but every local knows a story about ghosts haunting this place and weird noises that can’t be explained. Some think it’s because there was a graveyard on this territory long ago, and others have different theories. If you’re not superstitious or you’re just fearless, I suggest giving these stairs a go. It’s not a long route like the previous two and beautiful nature surrounds it so you’ll be able to enjoy birds chirping during your climb.
Image Credit: Trcanje.hr, Goran Muric
By far, the busiest stairway in Zagreb would be Felbinger’s stairs located in Tkalciceva Street or simply Tkalca. Since this is a popular spot for locals who love the rush of urban lifestyle and coffee in the city centre, anyone who wishes to go from Tkalca to the Upper Town or other way around, they’d like taking this route. Moreover, Saturday evenings at Tkalca are a well-known routine for many people who like to get a few drinks at bars before heading further to night clubs. Once again, Felbinger’s stairway will take them towards their desired clubbing destination as well as provide an opportunity to admire the view and counting red rooftops of Zagreb houses during the day.
Header Image Credit: Davor Rostuhar, Zagreb Tourist Board
Author: Paula Bracko